January is the month to prepare for the year… so here are some notes from my travels.
I made it to Jodhpur and Jaisalmer just before the year ended, and possibly my last travel of 2022.
This quick three-day trip put three things on top to take into the new year.
- Some people did make good use of the pandemic quiet.
- The young are reshaping tourism and how.
- Nature is gently being drawn into hotel concepts and destination experiences.
- People and Planet-friendly is now a conscious decision, especially with young entrepreneurs.
The following notes are insights into destinations like Jodhpur and Jaisalmer, traditionally promoted as desert and heritage destinations. RARE began with a focus on Destinations and Experiences and we continue to map remote destinations and how experiences can add value to programs even on often repeated routes.
This was early December of 2022 and my first stop was at Mharo Khet, which was a ‘Nutraceutical’ farm owned by the family for over 30 years is today a farm experience, just under an hour from Jodhpur airport and about 40 mins from the city. The idea is to help travelers discover the joy of freshly grown vegetables and fruits, reimagined along popular flavors but treated and plated to appeal to both itinerant travelers as well as this global tribe namely the ‘foodies’. Rajnush, young and articulate in what he has chosen to do at the farm, walks you through the poly-house growing a variety of vegetables and salad green, and the sun-kissed farms of carrots, baby corn, mustard, guava, moringa – his understanding is from knowing his land well and working on it with his team of women who come in from the nearby villages and lend a hand. It can be a short or long experience ( half a day ) as your interest dictates – but to finally end under the guava trees with sand underfoot for a sit-down multi-course meal can be the perfect day on a long or short holiday.
From here a quick stop at Kaner Retreat, Sapna Bhatia brings a unique perspective to a piece of land just off the highway en route to Jaisalmer. Building stories of the land, people and the wildlife of the desert is central to this ten room property which welcomes adults and children to enjoy and know the desert for its culture and its often harsh and unrelenting landscape. But for those who work here, there is much to be fascinated by. The arid landscape breathes a life of its own and Sapna can talk endlessly about it. She is a journalist and has spent her childhood here. Walking with her as she rather shyly shows off the little Gerbil park where meals are spread under the sky - the floor looks like a sandy carpet, as you wonder about the loose mounds in places – curios whiskers and beady eyes pop in and out. Just too cute you think while she proceeds to tell you how delighted the children find this space. There is more around like the lady farmer who is tending to an olive farm and has a brand of extra virgin oil called Olivia, all packaged, branded, and made right there. Each is a little or long story woven into Kaner.
Please note Mharo Khet and Kaner Retreat are our recommendations, But interesting experiences for those who are planning travel and itineraries in the region.
The purpose of this travel was to revisit the awesome new and now-renamed Manvar Kumat – Thar Serenity Camp and Killa Bhawan.
Eleven luxury tents set on one of the high dunes, is serenity on offer on some of the most secluded and picturesque dunes in the region, just under three hours from Jaisalmer. With its latest upgrade, Kumat Manvar Luxury Camp would be the best option for glamping in Rajasthan on the shifting desert sands, surrounded by scrub grassland and wild trees of Khejri, Rohida, Kumat, etc. The tents are beautiful, well insulated, and blend easily into the desert landscape, inside is a large living space cum lounge with an ensuite bath that leads to an outdoor shower. The bed and living are designed to be restful and elegant spaces, they open onto a shaded deck with a day bed and comfortable seating. A stunning bar and lounge - its design that celebrates the desert, its communities and performing arts is where magic happens every night. A small elevated stage sits alongside the infinity pool that flows visually into the desert sands, while the sunny deck is perfect for tall G&Ts and beer breaks. If yoga or Pilates is how you begin your day, it would probably be here as the sun hits you just perfectly to warm you gently into your asanas.
From Manvar it took me exactly three and a half hours to get to Jaisalmer. Lonely Planet many many years ago passed Killa Bhawan as one of the few hotels in the fort that contributed to the fort’s maintenance both in its operations and its voluntary care for the upkeep of the fort, one of the reasons why we are proud to have then on RARE.
To stay in Killa Bhawan in Jaisalmer was a long cherished dream, to wade through the shaded lanes in fort while resisting the temptation to look into the homes and lives of people for whom the fort is home and to finally duck unexpectedly to enter the small, storied hotel of eight rooms. Killa Bhawan has to be properly explored with Bhanu – the omnipresent manager and it comes into perspective and allows you to choose your favorite nook for the stay - from among the many colorful and shaded alcoves, courtyards, and balconies. My choice was this low seating on a Burj with cushions to sit on and bolsters for back support. You can look at Lego-block buildings stacked haphazardly, a sea of humanity sprawled at the feet of the fort, something about your relative exclusivity in the fort always overwhelms you. The nights especially are surreal as you look out from the turrets and terraces…. lights stay on till late, gradually dimming and dying. But it is the morning that unleashes the magic of these old settlements. It’s winter morning and the fog hangs like a collective breath to evaporate at the first hint of sun, soon the rays focus pointedly to illumine one turret after the other of the Jaisalmer fort. Walk through the lanes and watch it come alive, slowly - one shop, one home, one business, one restaurant at a time. Steaming tea shops first and cafés….temples already transmitting prayers, songs reverberating through the lanes. The city’s hygiene workers begin their relentless battle against litter, to retire tired each night defeated by what is a nationwide battle with no end in sight. Yet the lanes throb and charm, that is what has always pulled merchants and travelers, hawkers, musicians, and magicians - who have long forgotten who came seeking whom.
This is the charm of Jaisalmer - and a fort stay like Killa Bhawan is your window to all the magic.
Do write to us for bookings and any site visits you may require. A presentation can be planned online or in your office with me on request.
